Living in Cambodia


Traditional Cambodian Cultural Dress

Cambodia – Facts at a Glance
Map
History
Government
Language and Culture
People
Religion
Cuisine
Attractions and Famous Sites

Major Cities

Transport - Getting Around in Cambodia
Climate - What weather to expect
 

 



Cambodia – Facts at a Glance

  •  Full name: Kingdom of Cambodia   Buddhist Offering
  •  Head of State: His Majesty Samdech Preah Baromneath Norodom Sihamoni
  •  Head of Government: His Excellency Samdech Hun Sen, Prime Minister 
  •  Population: 14.8 million (UN, 2005)
  •  Capital and largest city: Phnom Penh 
  •  Major Cities: Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Koh Kong
  •  Border countries: Laos 541 km, Thailand 803 km, Vietnam 1,228 km
  •  Area: 181,035 sq km (69,898 sq miles) : Water 2.5% Coastline: 443 km
  •  Major language: Khmer
  •  Major religion: Buddhism (Theravada)
  •  Life expectancy: 52 years (men), 60 years (women) (UN)
  •  Monetary unit: 1 riel = 100 sen
  •  GNI per capita: US $490 (World Bank, 2006)
  •  Major Exports: Garments/Textile products, Sawn Wood Furniture, Fisheries Products, Rubber
  •  Major Export Trading Countries: United States, Germany, UK, Singapore, Japan 
  •  Major Imports: petroleum products, construction materials, vehicles and motorcycles, clothing
  •  Major Import Trading Countries: Thailand, Singapore, China, South Korea 
  •  Electricity: 220V AC 50 Hz
  •  Driving: Right hand side; International Driving Permit required  


Map

Interactive Google Map of Cambodia 


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History


Pre-20th-Century History

Small Ankor Temple StatueVery little is known about the prehistoric history of Cambodia, however, there have been archaeological findings which date back as far as 4000 BC. According to the Chinese chroniclers, the history of Cambodia starts with the foundation of Fou Nan, a wealthy and commanding state located in the Mekong Delta. This kingdom is said to begin to flourish around 300 AD. It was strongly influenced by Indian civilization and extended its domination until 600 AD. Fou Nan was overthrown by a Prince Javavarman, who ruled from around 790AD, and is thought to have possibly been a descendant from the original rulers of Funan. Cambodia was now designated the name Tehen-La by the Chinese. During this time of ruling Cambodia power spread westward into parts of Thailand.

The succeeding dynasty, ruled through the 12th and early 13th centuries, was based at the famous spiritual and creative temple complex of Angkor Wat. Cambodians expanded their control, under the leadership of King Survavarman, through both southern Vietnam and northern Thailand.

This so called Angkor period (between the 7th and the 10th centuries) included an extraordinary dynasty of Khmer sovereigns, and it was during this time that the temples and original cities were erected.

From 1220 onwards, Angkor was under a lot of military presser from The Chinese and the new kingdoms of north Thailand. Angkor was abandoned and in ruin by the end of the 15th Century. It has remained abandoned and unoccupied since this time, except for a brief period in the early 16th century. Thailand and Vietnam held much of the control over Cambodia until the establishment of the French protectorate in 1863.

Modern History

Modern Cambodia Historical ChronologyAngkor Wat

1860: The ruins of Angkor are discovered by naturalist Henri Mouhot

1863: King Norodom I signs a treaty making Cambodia a French protectorate

1887: The Indochinese Union is created, setting up a direct French administration controlling the protectorate.

1907: Franco-Siamese treaty returning the provinces of Battambang, Sisophon and Siem Reap to Cambodia .

1941: 19 year old Prince Norodom Sihanouk Is placed on the throne by representatives of the Vichy regime.

1953: This is the official end of the French Indochina. King Norodom Sihanouk becomes the head of state and the French are defeated at Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam is divided in two according to the terms of the Geneva agreement. Independence of Cambodia.

1960: Sihanouk declares Cambodia’s neutrality, but looks for support from China and North Vietnam remaining suspicious of the Thailand and South Vietnam.

1965: USA sends ground troops in to protect South Vietnam from communist invasion. The Khmer communist movement is formed, supported by Beijing, taking the name of Khmer Communist Party (KCP).

1966: The right wing wins the legislative elections and forms a government under Lon Nol, who is hostile to Sihanouk.

1969 -73: Cambodia comes under fire from America, and many civilians are killed and villages are destroyed.

1970: A coup d’etat in Phnom Penh, whilst Sihanouk is in France. General Lon Nol declares the Khmer Republic and calls on America for support. The King finds sanctuary in Beijing. Cambodia is invaded by American and South Vietnamese troops, all the while Khmer Rouge becomes a commanding force across the countryside.

1973: The Paris Peace Agreements are signed and thus the American troops withdraw from Vietnam. The KCP enlist young poor Cambodians in the Revolutionary Army of Liberation.

1975: The Khmer Rouge enters Phnom Penh on April 17th. Within two days the city is emptied of its residence and the people are forced to work in rice paddies. An ethnic cleansing campaign begins. The torture centre, Tuol Sleng, opens. The four year period of the killing fields begins and lasts for four years.

1975 - 79: Pol Pot transforms the country into one large concentration camp with his regime. Cambodia is renamed Democratic Kampuchea. One in four Cambodians die due to malnutrition and illness. China provides for the state of Kampuchea with total financial support.

1979: Phnom Penh is captured on January 7th by the Vietnamese. Cambodia’s Phnom Penh Streetsenemies ‘liberate’ the country and form a government called the ‘People’s Republic of Kampuchea. Khmer forces collapse due to starvation. The military forms guerrilla units along the Thai border. Cambodia is cut off from the rest of the world until 1989 as they are boycotted by the international community.

1982: Sihanouk heads an opposition coalition that includes the Khmer Rouge.

1991: An International peace agreement is signed in Paris. In principle it ends the civil war. Many Khmer Rouge defect after the UN led elections. But, several months later Khmer Rouge forces return to guerilla warfare.

1992: Nearly 400,000 refugees living in camps on the Thai border return to the country.

1993: The first free elections are head. Former enemies Ranariddh, The old Kings son, and Hun Sen, a former Vietnamese ally, share power when both are named Prime Minister.

1996: Pol Pot’s former associate, isolated in the Pailin region, finally adheres to the peace movement and signs an agreement with Hun Sen.

1997: Hun Sen overthrows Ranariddh, ending the share in power. Hun Sen manages to legitimize his coup d’etat and impose himself as head of Cambodia and his ruling party, the PPC.

1998: The death of Pol Pot and the subsequent collapse of the Khmer Rouge.

2003: Hun Sen’s PPC won elections in 2003 but political stalemate lasted one full year.

2004: King Sihanouk announced his intention to abdicate on account of ill health and annoyance at the countries political infighting. He was succeeded by his sun King Sihamoni.

2005: The PPC government used defamation as a public tool to clamp down on opposition activity.

2006: The royalist party imploded and a unlikely reconciliation was formed between Hun Sen and the opposition leader Sam Rainsy.

 

Cambodia Today - Government

Cambodia is still coming to terms with its new found democracy. Only a few main political parties exist, including, Sam Rangsi Party (a Khmer party), the National United Front for an Independent, Neutral, Peaceful and Cooperative Cambodia (FUNCINPEC- quite a mouthful of a name, but an important party), the Cambodian People’s Party (CPP), and the Buddhist Liberal Party (BLP), among others.Cambodian flag

Cambodia is divided into 21 provinces and 4 municipalities, and is governed by a constitutional monarchy. The King is the chief of state and is selected by the Royal Throne Council. The government consists of a bicameral parliament (A senate and the National Assembly) and all legislative functions lay in its hands. The National Assembly selects the Prime Minister, who is then appointed by the countries monarch. The right to vote is given to all Cambodian citizens once they reach the age of 18.

The Government of Cambodia's Website

 

Language and Culture

Khmer (pronounced ‘K’mai’) is the official language of Cambodia .  This is the language that most people use, whether they are ethnics Khmers or not. Its roots come from the ancient Indian languages of Pali and Sanskrit.Cambodian Boy on Bike

Khmer is not a tonal language, but it does share many common grammatical features with other South-East Asian languages. When learning to speak Khmer, it is important to understand that word order follows a familiar subject + verb + object pattern.

Native Khmer words consist mainly of one or two syllables, but a large number of foreign words have been assimilated into the language from Thai, French, English and Chinese. Due to Cambodia ’s increasing interaction with other countries, particularly, Laos , Vietnam and Thailand , which all border with Cambodia , and especially with its former colonial leaders, the French, over time Khmer developed into its modern form.Buddhist monk

Words are often borrowed from Chinese, French and English due to technology, business, commerce and food, and become common words throughout the country. Other than Khmer, Vietnamese, hill tribe languages, other dialects, French and English are also used in their true forms throughout the country.

 

People

Cambodia has a population of approximately 14million, with Cambodia People90 – 95% being ethnic Khmers. The minority groups consist mostly of hill tribes called Khmer-Leou, ethnic Chinese, Chams and Vietnamese. Only about 15% of the population are urban dwellers, and are highly concentrated in the capital city of Phnom Penh and less concentrated in the province of Battambang. This makes the majority of the population rural, living as farmers and artisans, surviving by making a living off agricultural trades.

muscian playingCambodia has a very interesting composition of men and women in its population, being one of the few countries where women outnumber the men substantially. Households headed by women can be judged at close to 25%. This can be seen as a direct link to the lengthy and bloody civil war which killed off hundreds of thousands of men in this country. There is much poverty and hardship in Cambodia, however, the majority of today’s population is young and youthful, and seems to be thankful to bring in a new peaceful era of development.

 

Religion

Buddhist StatueBuddhism is the principal religion of Cambodia. The particular sect that is commonly practiced in the country is called Theravada Buddhism. The early history of religion in Cambodia is obscure although, as in Thailand, a mixture of Mahayana and Hinduism predominated until the 13th century. After then, Theravada became the main type of Buddhism.Buddhist Shrine

With 95% of Cambodia’s population being devout Buddhists, there are many Buddhist relics and spiritual monuments across the country. The Wat (Temple) is a very important part of the Khmer lifestyle and religious belief system. The wat is not only a place of worship, but for many years has existed as a hub for all social activity. Virtually very small settlement and village has at least one wat. The temples have been used as a gathering place, a place to socialize, they have also doubled as the local hospital, hostel and place of trade. In modern times the temple may not always be used in this way, but it is still a very significant social centre.

Smaller communities within Cambodia practice Islam, Christianity and Animism.

 

Cuisine

Khmer food is a part of Cambodian Currythe Cambodian national identity. The culture that is imbedded in the food that is traditionally prepared reflects not only a way of life, but also a way of thought, a way of mind. Seventy percent of the cultivated land is devoted to growing rice, and with the rich variety of plants and crops available food is a celebration. There is a common believe among the Khmers that food is more than just a necessity, it adds pleasure to living. As in many western cultures, the Khmers celebrate special occasions with favourite meals and feasts.

Cambodian cuisine is based around the staples of fish, rice, stewed meats and fresh vegetables. The meal usual includes samla (soup) which is served alongside the other dishes, and the rice is served barely cooked and still crunchy.

As for drinks, water and tea are the usual beverages. But there is also a selection of palm wine, chorum (a rice-based spirit) and locally made brandy. The local beer (Angkor) is often served with meals.

All over Cambodia you will find stalls and marketplaces selling the local culinary delights. In these food stalls you will find anything from grilled frogs legs, to fresh local fruit, skewers and spring rolls. The most common skewer you are likely to come across is called ‘golden sapek’ and is small chunks of pork tenderloin alternated with pork fat and slices of Chinese sausage all grilled on hot coals. Most dishes are served with nuoc mam, a fish sauce diluted with water and seasoned with chopped red chili.

Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, are where you need to be if you would like to dine in more up market restaurants. Phnom Penh is home to many restaurants both stand alone, and in house, where you can purchase and enjoy both the local delicacies as well as international cuisine. You will find anything from American burgers to Japanese, Korean or Thai among the choices of places to eat.

From baguettes to frogs legs, there is a strong French influence in the culinary delights of Cambodia, due to their history. Also the Cambodians seem to have adopted a love for pizza, with restaurant chains such as ‘Happy Herb Pizza’ making up the hundred or so pizza restaurants and stalls around the country.

 

Attractions and Famous Sites


Bokor National Park

The Bokor national Park is located in Kampok and is easily accessed via motorcycle or Car. It is one of the premier protected areas of Cambodia. Sitting on the southern edge of the Elephant mountains, the national park is renowned for its crisp cool climate, secluded Bokor National Parkwaterfalls, and its incredible ocean views. It is also home of the desolate and eerie French hill station and elusive and commanding animals such as tigers and elephants.

In the first part of the 20th Century, the French built a road, through many financial and human sacrifices, into this area, and over time a small community was built. Bokor Palace, the grand French colonial hotel, was inaugurated in 1925. This hotel was abandoned twice, over the years, but the last time was in the 1970’s during the invasion of the Khmer rouge. It now has a very eerie ghost town feel, particularly when the thick mists roll in through the national park.

The Killing fields of Cheoung Ek

The Killing fields of Cheoung Ek are found in Phnom Penh, and can be accessed by foot, bicycle, motorcycle or taxi. When arriving at the fields one will find a chilling 129 mass grave sights, 43 of which still lay untouched. You can see a monumental white stupa memorializing the approximately 17,000 people who were executed here by the Khmer Rouge between 1975 and 1978.

On display behind the stupa’s glass panels are over 8000 human skulls. Many of these skulls lay in testament to the fact that their owners had been bludgeoned to death, in horrific circumstances, to save bullets. The delighted cries of children from the nearby school yard is clearly in stark contrast from the horror that lays before you when you experience the sight of a white human bone sticking out from an area of disrupted earth as you wander through the fields.

The Killing Fields are open to visitors between 7.00 and 17.00 and are a moving reminder of Cambodia’s dark history.

Phnom Sontuk

The beautiful religious spiritual mountain, Phnom Sontuk, can be found in Kompong Thom and is accessed by car or motorcycle. Phnom Sontuk is the most important holy mountain in the north west of Cambodia. Set high above the surrounding countryside, the wat is decorated with statues of Buddah, some modern and others carved into the mountainside centuries ago.

Being in such a beautiful location, high above, means that the views are phenomenal, but it also means that there are a lot of stairs to climb, 980 to be exact. The stairs wind up through the beautiful forest and surface at a brightly colored pagoda decorated with many small shrines.

There is an active wat on the mountain, where the monks are always interested in being in receipt of foreign tourists.

Temples of Angkor - Including Angkor Wat

Angkor WatThe Temples of Angkor are perhaps both the spiritual and architectural highlight of Cambodia. Accessible by car, bike or bus tour the temples are truly inspirational. Many, many years ago, the Cambodian god-kings, strove to top their ancestors in creativity and spirituality and thus, resulting in the world’s largest religious building. The perfect union of creative expression and spiritual devotion is what has created this, the heart and soul of Cambodia.

Tomb Raider was Filmed at Angkor WatThe temples of Angkor are a point of pilgrimage for today’s Cambodians, and a hold for them a sense of national pride and inspiration. No traveler to Cambodia will want to miss out on this spectacular sight.

Tourism information on the Angkor Temples Complex

Sihanoukville Beach

Sihoukville Hotel'Beach town', 'port community', 'fledgling resort destination' - all describe Sihanoukville, Cambodia's premier beach town. Sihanoukville's white sand beaches and warm Gulf of Thailand waters combine with a laid back, beachy atmosphere to provide a great little tropical getaway. Sihanoukville is a place to unwind by the beach, enjoy the fresh from-the-ocean seafood, take in a snorkeling or scuba trip, and generally slow-down, lay back and chill-out.

Read more on the Cambodian Tourism website

 

Major Cities of Cambodia


Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh: the name can’t help but conjure up an image of the exotic. The glimmering spires of the royal palace, the fluttering saffron of the monks’ robes, and the luscious location on the banks of the mighty Mekong; this is one of Asia’s undiscovered gems. But it’s also a city on the move, as a new wave of investors move in, perhaps forever changing the character, and skyline, of this classic city. Phnom Penh is a crossroads of Asia’s past and present, a city of extremes of poverty and excess, of charm and chaos, but one that never fails to captivate.
Read the rest at Lonely Planet.com

MAP - A detailed map of Phenom Penh (674KB) from Can by Publications.

Siem Reap

Angkor TempleBack in the 1960s, Siem Reap (see-em ree-ep) was the place to be in Southeast Asia and saw a steady stream of the rich and famous. After three decades of slumber, it’s well and truly back and one of the most popular destinations on the planet right now. The life-support system for the temples of Angkor, Cambodia’s eighth wonder of the world, Siem Reap was always destined for great things, but few people saw them coming this thick and this fast. It has reinvented itself as the epicentre of the new Cambodia, with more guesthouses and hotels than temples, world-class wining and dining and sumptuous spas.
Read the rest at Lonely Planet.com

 

Transport - Getting around in Cambodia


Taxis, Motorcycle taxis and Tuk Tuks.

Within the city and for transportation in between sites, motorcycles, taxis and tuk tuks are the way to go. On the crowded street of Phnom Penh it is often easier to acquire one of these modes of transport than it is to cross the busy road. There are no meter taxis, and it costs only around $5 - $7 from the airport to the city of Phnom Penh. Cheaper is the motorcycle taxi, a fun way to travel, but less comfortable than the traditional taxi.Tuk Tuk Driver from Siem Reap

The tuk tuk is the most popular inner city travel choice for the tourist. This tricycle taxi will take you anywhere you want to go in the city at a very low price.

Please note, car hire is not available at this time in Cambodia, but you can hire a personal driver to take you between sites if you choose.

Boats

River boats can be a cheap form of transportationTravelling by water is a very popular means of transport whilst in Cambodia. The most popular route is along the Tonle Sap between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. It is more expensive than the bus at around $20 - $23 per trip, but it is a beautiful way to travel. There is also a fast boat to and from Koh Kong and Sihanoukville, and is often best as due to the wet season the road is more than likely in bad condition. A bus/boat service is also available from Phnom Penh to Saigon via Chao Doc border crossing.

Buses

There are a number of companies operating along a few different routes in Cambodia providing transport to and from Phnom Penh and the other major cities and provinces, the roads are gradually improving but can be bad at times. Buses travel also between Phnom Penh and the borders of neighboring countries. The bus service however is cheap at around $4 per trip, and almost all buses are equipped with air conditioning and video TV.

Trains

Taking the train in Cambodia is without question, an experience. With old train carriages, and only two train lines running in the country, it is an unreliable way to travel. However, if you have the time, it is well worth the experience, it’s very cost efficient and the scenery toward the coast is breath taking.

The train is only available from Battambang – Phnom Penh, or from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville. The train normally leaves at 5am or 6am and is almost a full days journey, but it is best to enquire at the train station as to when the train will be running next.
 

Climate

Cambodia has two distinct seasons one wet, and one dry. The typical tropical The beachmonsoonal climate is very similar to that of its neighboring countries.

The wet rainy monsoon season, which runs from April/May to late October, sees high humidity and temperatures dropping to around 22°C. This wet season brings with it strong winds and heavy rains. In fact the rain is so heavy that almost all of Cambodia’s annual rainfall falls within this period, mostly in the evening or night and usually accompanied by thunderstorms.

The dry season lasts from November to March/April and can be quite pleasant. With cloudless skies, morning fogs and smoke haze, the best months to visit Cambodia are during the earlier months of the dry season, i.e. November to January when the temperature and humidity are lower. Once March/April hits the temperatures can escalate up to 40°C and the humidity also increases once more.

The Rainy Season

From June till October 27-35C (80-95F)

The Dry Season (Cool)

From November till February 20-28C (68-86F)

The Dry Season (Hot)

From March till May 29-38C (84-100F)

 

 


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